Tanunda to Doncaster (Melbourne)

Took a day trip out from Tanunda to Blanchtown on the Murray River..I always had the impression that this was a big 'muddy' river but was pleasantly surprised to see blue green water... and of course the houseboats are everywhere and available to hire....




The Mighty Murray as Ive heard it refered to many times is impressive with the sandstone walls that have been carved by water,wind and the other elements...



I wondered how Blanchtown got its name and never did find out ...but I found it strange that all the houses in the town were coloured cream with either blue or green rooves and gutters...giving the town that 'blanched' effect!

More farewells and we were 'on the road again'...making our way down the coast to Robe that night...

Tanya highly recommended we have Fish n Chips whilst we were in Robe at a place called The Sails...well, they were delcious and Hans tasted New Zealand Hoki for the first time.


Robe itself is a pictursque place...I guess originally a small fishing village... unfortunately the weather was not kind to us there with howling freezing cold wind and rain...but you get that!

Next day we crossed the South Australian/West Australian border..and drove to the Grampians ...Again, the weather wasn't working with us, as we woke up to an electrical storm and rain...sort've puts a damper on any sort of photography!...by late morning as we were leaving the National Park there was a reprieve for a short time...so we got a few pic's.


The journey all the way to the coast again was in the rain and we found a place to stay in Warranbool early that night... the next morning the sun was out again and just in time for us to start our Great Ocean Road experience...But before we left town we went to Town Hill a conservation area located in a crater for wild life...no gates or fences...just an open area where animals live naturally...Saw my first Koala in the wild there...there were emu's, kangaroos, black swans and a proliferation of birdlife...

The Great Ocean Road ...check out some of these amazing features carved by Mother Nature!

The Bay of Islands

The Grotto

London Bridge



The Arch

The '12' Apostles....there is only 7 now standing...

We left the Great Ocean Road at Lavers Hill and went inland to the Otway Ranges...Hans wanted to see and photograph Temperate Rain Forest...Beautiful forests of giant Beech, Pine, Ferns...Waterfalls, babbling brooks, moss on the trees, ... Very much like the flora in the North Island of NZ.


The plants flowering in South Australia and Victoria at this time of year re ignite old memories for me of my earlier years in NZ...the smell of freesias, jonquils, jasmime...seeing flowering Rhoderdendrons, Fushias, Camellias, Iris's, Gerberas, Daffodils, Buttercups, Dandelions, Daisys flowering in the lawns...and of course the smell of newly cut grass...

Hans picking Freesias for the car in the rain!

We are now in Melbourne in the suburb of Doncaster staying with my friend Claire and her family...Claire and I used to live in the same housing complex in Coomera 6years ago so we have a lot of catching up to do!...we used to share a wine or 3 of an evening, in our pocket size backyards...and now we are again sharing a wine or 3 again of an evening!!!...

Port Augusta to Tanunda.

Views over Port Augusta...



from the old water tower...


It was beautiful the first day we were there, but the second day...it was like 'the desert came to town'!...very strong winds blew the sand through the area..walking through it was like getting sandblasted!...the locals didn't bat an eyelid ..."its normal at this time of the year" they told us!

The washing I had done and hung out that morning, I rescued from the line...it was ingrained with sand!

From Port Augusta we travelled over the Flinders Range and it was like being in another world!
Green rolling hills, lush grass, spring flowers..
And old buildings in varoius forms of ruins or in some cases lovingly ressurected..

Below is the old brewery in Melrose..it was shut down in 1939...but still stands proud and tall. We had coffee in a restored Blacksmith's shop...the owners also had a B&B and allowed us to look through and take photos
From Melrose we took the Bridle track...now a 4wD track over the range to Port Pirie...great views over the countryside and toward the coast...its hard to imagine that horse drawn coaches and wagons used to traverse the hills...guess it was a 'short cut' between the Port and the communities over the ranges... it wouldn't have been a comfortable ride!

Before arriving in Port Pirie we visited Telowie Gorge and got a bit of exercise...40 minute round trip on foot but again another beautiful spot...



From Port Pirie we travelled inland again through to Burra...just a town on a map to us but when we got there we were enthrawled....the towns and 'townlets' in this area were all originally settled by German Lutherans and the 'flavour' of their type of arcitecture is very evident even through the Barossa Valley where we are at the moment...but getting back to Burra..This town 'happened' because very rich and pure copper deposits were found here and of course mines were then constructed...You can drive through the old mine sites and see what a scale the operation was in those days...

This is one of the two mines that was operating then...

The town of Burra is brimming with Antique shops and the town architecture is amazing and thanks to the towns people, intact, and most buildings have been restored....there is so much history in the lower parts of Australia still evident as compared with Queensland and the 'top end'...I guess the fact that the buildings here were all made of various sandstone brick stood the test of time better than the wood and iron buildings built for the more tropical climate.These historical buildings and antiques delight the tourists.

Our journey continued then through Eudunda, staying a night at Kapunda, then on through Gawler and to where we are staying at present with our friends Vaughan and Tanya in Tanunda, in the heart of the Barossa Valley...wine country big time!...The brands I've drunk in the past like Wolfblass, Jacobs Creek, Penfolds (I won't go on...not good for my 'reputation') are all grown here...well the grapes are!

Now...I've got to let you into a secret...Vaughan runs a brewery where of course they make beer...Its a boutique brewery called Barossa Valley Brewery...We went to check him out 'on the job'!

...And I have been introduced to the BEST beer I have ever tasted! Its called Bee Sting! You have got to try this brew!...its divine...Beer to me has always tasted rather bitter but this is delicious...believe me....I've had quite a few 'taste tests' during our stay with these lovely people...Just so I can recommended with complete confidence!..So on my recommendation I advise you to go and try it for yourselves..The photo below is provided by me so you can recognise it when you see it!....As I understand it is available through Dan Murphy outlets...and if they haven;t got it, get them to get it in for you...You will not be dissappointed in the flavour...it takes beer drinking experience to new heights!

I should've been in advertising...don't you think?....but I tell no bullshit here....It's YUM! If you want to contact Vaughan about getting this brew into your area...here is the link.. http://www.bvbeer.com.au

And this is Tanya...Vaughans lovely wife and a fellow Scorpian!...Here we are reviving after a major trek through Stringy Bush Conservation Park!
She's a terrific cook amongst her other many talents!

Esperance to Port Augusta.

Leaving Esperance behind we took an inland route recommended for 4wd's to meet up with the Nullarbor at Balladonia...
Previous travellers along that road displayed a bit of spirit and humour as we found several gates along the way decorated in various items of clothes..



Not far from Balladonia is the commencement of the longest straight road in Australia as you can see by the photo below...


The Nullarbour plains road is in total about 1300kms starting at Norseman and ending at Ceduna. We camped out the first night along the road....drove off the road and into the distance to where we could see a stand of trees...plenty of Mallee bush, the dead timber of which makes great and long laying firewood...and you really needed a good fire out there as it got down to -1 deg that night! We woke in the morning to Nullarbor in the mist!


Took awhile that morning to dry up the gear that was dripping with condensation...
The temperature during the day was getting up to the late 20's...(and this is winter)

Stopped for a coffee at Cocklebiddy (no cappucinos out here!...just instant coffee for the same price!).
Was amused by the sandwich board outside the door...


The Great Australian Bight runs adjacent to the Nullarbor...this is where the 'land runs out' so to speak....and it does so dramatically...with the edge of land ending in cliffs with a 70 + metre drop into the ocean....the edge is very fragile and falls away easily so its not recommended that you stand close to it! But indeed an amazing sight to behold...next stop Antartica!Most of the terrain along the Nullarbor is stunted malle bushes and salt bushes with the occassional areas of trees...The Nullarbor gets on average 8cms of rain per year!...we can get that in an hour in Far North QLD!..

The name Nullarbor...is derived from the latin words Nullus meaning no, and abhor meaning trees...'No Trees' ....see you even learn latin on this blog!!

Night two on the Nullarbor we stayed in a motel in Eucla which is approximately half way across.A tiny town built on the Eucla bluffs and dunes close to the ocean and its claim to fame is that it was the first telegraph station linking east to west Australia and then Australia to the world in the late 1800's...The telegraph station ruins are still there, and only due to the people of the town, still visible as the sand dunes would've buried it by now...




12kms east of Eucla is the border crossing between Western Australia and South Australia.

The most frequent vehicles you see on the Nullarbor road are road trains...and the occassional grey nomad. I take my hat off to the roadtrain drivers...its a very long and 'scenically challenging' journey...

The road kill ...especially kangaroos, is prolific, and carcases in varying degrees of decay line the road which provides ready meals for the crows and eagles each morning!

Ceduna...Stayed a few days at Shelly Beach Caravan Park...can highly recommend this place...Immaculately clean cabins and facilities and the beach is for campers only...
Ceduna is a quiet small coastal town with a relaxed atmosphere...Most of the surrounding farms grow wheat...not yet touched by huge tourism, although it does cater adequately for visitors passing through...this is also the quarantine point between WA and SA....couldn't quite work out why its situated in Ceduna, when we crossed the border just east of Eucla!....no fruit,vege,plants of any kind are permitted through...they check your vehicle and its an $160 on the spot fine if you get caught bringing those things across....hence well before we reached Ceduna we disposed of our onions and potatoes we were carrying.


Approximately an hour or so drive south of Ceduna is a feature called Murphy's Haystacks...no they are not made of hay as I thought when I first heard about them...they are granite outcrops!


There they stand on a hill ...these are just a few of them...there were more...whilst walking in and around them a very protective magpie swooped and aimed for my head giving me a hell of a fright...unbeknown to me her nest was nearby and she didn't like my presence....she was unrelenting and continued her 'assault' till I left the area...

Also unwittingly came across a bearded dragon sunnning himself on a branch.... he didn't seem to mind my presence ...in fact it was almost as if he was posing for the camera!


Getting off the main highway again we headed north to the Gawler Ranges National Park.Did 4wd track out to the Organ Pipes....crystalised basalt columns...



Camped the night in the National Park at Scrubby Peak...there was no one around and there hadn't been anyone there camped for quite sometime....there were however kangaroos,dingos,an owl and rabbits to keep us 'company' that night....the mecury in the morning registered at 0 deg! No wonder no one camps out there at this time of the year!!!!

Next morning headed east again...definitely in the outback here....salt bush, you travel across one cattle station to the next...but never see the homestead unless you were to travel up their 'drive' for 5-10 kms!...

Out in the 'middle of nowhere you find things, interesting things that most people only see now days in museums...eg look at this wagon...just out there!...



And these ruins...these were the working quarters of the men who used to shear sheep on the former Pondanna station


On this part of out journey we came across only one patch of Sturts Dessert Pea...this is South Australias State flower....in the dessert....but it was oh so beautiful...especially in the middle of endless stretches of salt bush and mallee shrub...
And onwards to Port Augusta. Population 15,000...where the sea appears to come inland and meet the desert....
We are here for a few days ....being in a 'major' town, staying in a cabin, or some other form of accommodation, gives us the opportunity to connect with our family and friends...internet reception is sparse and in some areas non existant.
My youngest daughter Carina moved to New Zealand this week, my daughter Rachel ate the first leaves from the lettuce she and her partner Jeremy planted in their vege patch! ... in which they are also growing tomatoes,silverbeet,capsicum,spring onions,potatoes and herbs..she passed her exams with A's!...Ben my son got engaged last week!...these tit bits of news from family and friends...the opportunity to connect with friends via email, and parents via phone means so much...communication is important and hence our 'need' to come into town...aside from the 'need' to purchase food!

Geraldton to Esperance.

Leaving Geraldton, going south is an historical village...a street with housing facilities for the clergy of different denominations,the police station and jail,schools etc and of course the churches...They mustve been 'holy' people in those days ..

Took this photo inside the Catholic church...they must've all had basically the same 'decor' because I remember kneeling in one that looked very much like this, as a young and gulible girl...going to confession and before entering trying to think of a sin that I had been guilty of and then making some up so I had something to 'confess'!


Our next destination was the Cervantes and the nearby famous Pinnacles..
What an amazing 'trick' of nature!...That these structures have formed over hundreds and hundreds of years...a truly awesome site and spread over a huge area...the drive in the car around the different view points is 3kms long.





Hugging a Penicle!!!
From there we made our way inland again and stayed the night in York...the oldest town in WA (1862)and where Brian Bell, whom we stayed with was born...

What a quaint place!...none of the buildings and shops have been modernised...
Stayed at the Settlers Inn..Fully restored rooms to that period...The Settlers in was where the soldiers stayed and each 'suite' was named after a soldier.

Travelling further south again through Beverly, Pingelly, Narrogin, Wagin... beautiful countryside..Wheat fields interspersed with Canola fields in flower, blossoms on the trees and the occassional ruins of brick farmhouses... Jonquils

Camping in this area is restrictive as everywhere you get either the 'no camping sign' or if you are permitted to camp then you are not allowed to have a fire...You just got to have a fire at this time of the year as its soooo cold at night...especially the way we camp...Whilst driving through the countryside we decided to go via a back road towards the area known as the 'Valley of the Giants'...where huge Karri and Tingle trees grow...in conversation Hans said, "wouldn't it be neat to find a bush cabin or hut somewhere to stay a night or two?"...

We were driving through Mt Franklin National Park and saw a sign to Fernhook Falls...It wasn't far off the road so we thought we'd check out the Falls....There was a camping area there and lo and behold two bush cabins with small pot belly like fireplaces in them, that were available for use in this beautiful spot for a small fee of $6.50 each per night....there was no one else around...only 'strange' people camp out in this area at this time of year!..So we moved in and made ourselves comfortable. It had it's own rainwater tank as well so beautiful clean water on tap.

We were all set up when a 4wd vehicle came into the camp at speed...and drove straight up tp our cabin...The guy got out ...he was not happy Jack...he explained that he didn't believe that anyone would even consider camping in the area that night and that he had planned to use our cabin and the other one to accommodate 20 teenagers celebrating a birthday party that night!Well we weren't to know were we!?
Anyway...he eventually calmed down.The party went ahead that night with our peaceful night disrupted with the 'head banging' music that teenagers seem to be into, playing loudly till the wee hours of the morning...We hung our hammocks wall to wall...

Travelled through to Walpole and visited the Giant Tingle Tree...thats Hans standing inside its trunk...these trees adapt to repeated fires and injury hence many of the trunks have 'holes' in them...

Hans did the Giant Tree Tops walk...before we moved on and had lunch in Denmark!..Then onto Mt Barker where alongside the road were beautiful wild freesias...the smell of them divine and brang back memories of earlier years...We picked some of course and they stayed fragrant for days on the dash.
We had been looking in earnest to find a red and green Kangaroo Paw along the road...the state flower of WA...We found a small patch where several were growing and thankfully stopped and photographed them because we haven't seen them anywhere since... Isn't it an striking flower?

Just south of a place called Borden we came across a Dutch Windmill in the middle of a canola field! It was called 'The Lily"... and she was grand...although not open at this time of year she still grounds flour that you can buy....


Had me looking at the map... a couple of days ago we were in Denmark ...were we in Holland now?
On to Hyden and to visit the famous Wave Rock...another amazing creation of Mother Nature!

This Sandstone 'Rock' is 15 metres high and 100 metres long..the colours a result of different minerals seeping for years as the rock formed.

We then went off the beaten track taking a road less travelled through to Norseman.
Traversing the road in this area you often see blue tongued lizards...stumpy looking lizards with 'attitude'...

When they are not happy with your close presence, they try to scare you by opening their mouth and sticking their tongue out at you!

Then there is this little fellow whose smaller in size than my hand...He's known as a Thorny Devil...A road worker driving a roller stopped whilst we were photographing him in the middle of the road and after a chat put on his leather gloves to move him onto the verge so he wouldn't get run over...
Saw a sign to a place called The Breakaways in the middle of nowhere and went to have a look...

Wow what an awesome place...and it had 5 camping areas that you could use and there was nobody there! One camp was situated in the curve of a sandstone wall so we picked that one...sheltered from the wind and you wouldn't even know we were there unless you walked into it.

Firewood is hard to find in camping areas such as this, as any wood around the immediate vicinty has been used by previous campers...so you have to go away from the area to collect..its too hard to carry it all back and we have limited space in or on our vehicle so Hans improvised and towed some back to our camp.

So we had a rip roaring fire going that night which we needed as our thermometer told us it had got down to 4 degrees!

We had been sound asleep in our hammocks for about an hour, when we both woke up on our arses!...as the branch we had secured our hammocks to, had split from the rest of the tree at the base and fallen off! That was a bit of a rude awakening!
After re attaching the hammocks again to the same tree we managed to get warm enough to get back to sleep eventually.

View from above the camp.

Moved on again and reached Norseman early afternoon...met up with one of the tractors we'd seen at the beginning of our travels around the top of Australia..they had come down the east coast whilst we had come down the west!...stopped for a chat...they are raising funds for the Royal flying doctor service.

And now we are in beautiful Esperance for a few days....beautiful beaches with white sand and turquoise blue water and big waves...The temperature here at present...15 deg puts swimming and sunbathing on the beach out of the question!

Even Sammy the local sea lion that lives down by the pier doesn't appear impressed with the weather!

Till the next exciting installment!!.....